View Full Version : My Squaresless Rules conversions.

15 December 2004, 06:34 PM
Well, I can't stand the squares based system, and the people I play with aren't too fond of them either. So what to do? The same thing I do to every game. FIX IT. These are my rules to play traditional miniatures battles with the Star Wars minis. Feel free to use them, or comment here on them.

Obviously these rules supercede the normal SW Minis rules and will require your opponent to agree to them.

Note these rules are written for myself and my friends so they tend to be terse since we have played quite a few more complex games. If something is confusing feel free to ask me to explain it out.

This is also a work in progress. We have playtested it out a bit, and it works pretty well. If my digital camera wasn't such a pain, I would have taken some pics of our battle over my 2 sets of Necromunda terrain.

1: -2 to hit for every 12" past the first 12". Models who have move or fire restrictions have an 18" range increment instead.

2: 1/4 or less of a model in cover is considered to have NO cover.

3: 1/4 to 1/2 cover is -4 to hit.

4: 1/2 to 3/4 cover is -6 to hit.

5: 3/4 to full cover is unable to be shot at, but may not shoot at blocked units itself.

6: Models must shoot closest valid target unless the closest target has cover.

7: Models block LOS to other models. This includes friendly models.

8: If cover/LOS questions come in to play find the 2 closest solutions, and roll odds or evens for solution A and B and go with that.

9: A model must be adjacent to cover for it to shoot cleanly over it without the cover providing protection for both models.

1: Inches equals squares for movement/range/ect. Diagonals no longer count double.

2: Terrain providing a model cover costs double move from 1/4-1/2 cover, triple for 1/2 to 3/4, and impassible without ladders/lifts above that.

3: Ladder/Lift movement is as a normal move in distance (albeit vertically) except a model may not end its movement on a non horizontal location. (Aka A 6 inch ladder leading up a wall would require a model to run to it and end up on top of the wall, or have started base to base with the ladder to move the full 6" to end up on top of the wall.)

4: A model critically hit or hit then the attacker rolls a 16+ on the D20 falls down off of terrain when it is less than 1" away from a ledge. Model takes 10hp damage for every inch it falls down till it reaches another flat surface.

5: A model in full cover is considered to be safe from close combat.

6: A model in close combat that is higher than its enemy has a +2 to hit.

7: 1" surrounding a model's base is considered to be in close combat and other adjacent model rules that use adjacent model requirements.

8: Every 1" of movement through a model's adjacent zone is considered a square for purposes of Attacks of Opportunity.

1: The loser of the last turn's initative roll wins ties this roll. If the loser still loses initiative, every turn the loser gains +1 to their roll (plus a win on all ties) until they win initiative. (Thus only on the first turn do both sides reroll a tie since every turn after that the loser wins on a tie. Example of initative roll. Player A has lost initative 4 times in a row, and thus adds +3 to their roll and wins initiative on a tie. Thus if Player A rolls a 5, its really an 8, but Player B needs a 9 or better to win initative for his 5th turn in a row. )

17 December 2004, 01:09 AM
I imagine that would make the game a lot more realistic. Unfortunately for myself, the squares system makes the game easier for me to teach to my friends since the rules are simplified.

At least this way, more of my friends can get into the game cause there are too many rules to remember. You just remember the basics and then read the cards...

Personally, I think I'd rather play the game somewhere along the lines as you and your friends do, Bloodcat. I just wouldn't have anyone to play with if I did... :(